Induction is the direction Sydney kitchens are moving, and most of the switches we do start from gas or an older ceramic cooktop. The cooking part is easy to like. The part that decides whether the switch goes smoothly is electrical, and it is worth understanding before you buy the unit.
The circuit is the real job
Most existing kitchens were wired for a 20 A electric cooktop, or for none at all where gas has always done the cooking. A full-size induction cooktop draws more peak current and usually needs a dedicated 32 A circuit. That is the piece to confirm first: whether your switchboard and the cable run can take the new circuit, and what the upgrade involves if not. We check this on the diagnostic visit and quote the whole job — circuit, cutout, and cooktop — as one piece of work.
Modern installations also sit behind an RCD (safety switch) that trips on earth fault. We confirm the protection is present and tested as part of the install.
Coming from gas? The line gets decommissioned properly
Swapping gas for induction is a two-licence job: the electrical work for the new circuit, and licensed gas work to terminate the old supply safely. Capping a gas line is not a leave-it-and-see task — it is done to the same standard as a connection, and the paperwork reflects it. The gas side of that discipline is covered in our guide to replacing a gas cooktop.
The install itself
With power sorted, the installation follows the same discipline as any cooktop:
- Cutout. The benchtop opening is checked against the manufacturer’s template. Stone benchtops are cut by a stonemason in advance; laminate and timber we cut on the day.
- Airflow gap. Induction cooktops cool themselves with air drawn underneath. Most early-life induction faults we see (over-temperature cutouts, fan errors, intermittent zones) come from installs that blocked the manufacturer’s airflow gap. Preserving it is the difference between a unit that lasts and one that nuisance-trips.
- Connection and certificate. The cooktop is wired to the dedicated circuit, tested under load, and the work gets a certificate of electrical compliance.
- Seal and test. The unit is sealed to the benchtop and every zone is tested before sign-off.
The full scope is on our cooktop installation and replacement page.
Two things to check before you buy
- Your cookware. Induction needs magnetic-base pans. The fridge-magnet test on the base of your existing set tells you on the spot what will carry over.
- The model’s circuit requirement. It is on the specification sheet as the connected load or supply rating. Bring it to the quote and the electrical answer comes back precise, not approximate.
Already have induction and something is off?
Zones cutting out mid-cook, error codes, or a cracked glass surface are diagnosable faults, not automatic replacements. Our cooktop repair page covers the common induction faults and how the visit works.